How to use a derma roller correctly?

Derma roller, does that ring a bell? It is a micro-roller with fine needles that has become a popular helper for improving skin quality. It helps reduce acne scars, fine wrinkles, pigmentation spots, or enlarged pores. However, to bring truly visible results and not cause harm, it is important to know how to use it properly. Let’s go through step by step how to do it.

What is a derma roller and how does it work?

Derma roller is a roller covered with hundreds of thin metal micro-needles which create microscopic punctures when rolled over the skin. These tiny “injuries” stimulate collagen and elastin production, leading to firmer, smoother, and more youthful skin. At the same time, they allow better absorption of cosmetic products applied afterward.

How to choose the right needle size?

There are different needle lengths and choosing the right one is crucial.

• 0.2–0.3 mm – ideal for home use, supports absorption of serums and moisturizing creams. Not painful.
• 0.5 mm – suitable for fine wrinkles, pigmentation, and mild scars. Slightly invasive, may cause redness.
• 1.0 mm and above – intended mostly for professional use (dermatologist or beautician). Home use can be risky.

The most ideal for home use is to stay at maximum 0.5 mm.

How to use a derma roller correctly step by step

Before you start using the derma roller itself, it is good to know what you can actually use it for. Our article will help you with that: What is a derma roller for and how often to use it?

1. Thoroughly cleanse your skin

Remove makeup and cleanse your face with a gentle cleansing gel or foam. The skin must be completely clean before use.

2. Disinfect the derma roller

Before each use, soak the roller for 5 to 10 minutes in alcohol (e.g., 70% isopropyl alcohol or ethanol) and let it dry. This is an effective and quick disinfection.

3. Divide the face into sections

Imagine the face divided into forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin. Treat each part separately.

4. Roll correctly

Gently roll the derma roller over the skin in horizontal, vertical, and diagonal directions.

Make 4 to 8 passes in each direction, but do not press hard. Light pressure is enough.

5. Apply a suitable serum

After treatment, the skin is like a “sponge,” meaning it is the ideal time to apply serum.

Use a hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid or a soothing serum without fragrance and alcohol. Avoid products with retinol or vitamin C (they may irritate).

6. Disinfect the roller after use

After treatment, dip the roller again into alcohol and let it dry on a clean paper towel.

The derma roller has potential for your skin, but to achieve maximum effects, it is important to use it correctly.

How often to use a derma roller?

• Needles 0.2–0.3 mm: comfortably 2–3× a week
• Needles 0.5 mm: only once a week
• Needles 1.0 mm and above: only under professional supervision

Skin needs time to regenerate and here too, less is sometimes more.

What to watch out for?

• Do not use on active acne, eczema, burns, or open wounds.
• After treatment, do not expose the skin to the sun and do not use makeup for at least 24 hours.
• Replace the derma roller regularly – ideally every 10–15 uses (depending on quality).

Summary

The derma roller is an effective helper for home skin care, but of course only if used properly. The key is cleanliness, gentleness, and regularity. Results do not appear overnight, but with long-term use, you can expect firmer, smoother, and more radiant skin.